Providing a Home for a Rabbit

A rabbit hutch placed in the back yard, basement, or garage is a common way of housing rabbits. The hutch should be easy to access for proper care of the rabbit because diseases of neglect are common in rabbits that are kept in a hutch at the back of the yard. There should be adequate ventilation and protection from dogs and other predators. Because rabbits are prone to both overheating and to developing frostbite, rabbits housed outdoors should be brought inside during extremes in temperature.

Rabbits can become a more integrated part of the household when they are kept indoors. They can be trained to use a litter box and accustomed to being kept in a cage part of the time. However, rabbits tend to chew on things and may gnaw furniture, curtains, carpeting, or electrical wiring. Chewing on electrical wiring is dangerous for the rabbit and creates a fire hazard. Rabbits should be confined to safe quarters when unsupervised.

Because rabbits gnaw, caging must be constructed of materials that will hold up. Cages should be easy to clean and sanitize. All-wire cages with a minimum of 12-gauge wire are preferred; 16-gauge wire is recommended for cage flooring to support the weight of the rabbit. Wire flooring allows droppings to fall away from rabbits’ feet and keeps the cage cleaner. However, cage floors also should contain a small, smooth, flat area (made of heavy plastic or other easily disinfected material) on which rabbits can stand to reduce pressure on the bottoms of their feet and the likelihood of sores developing there. The size of the hutch depends on the size of the rabbit. Giant breeds, greater than 12 pounds (5.4 kilograms), require a minimum cage size of 30 by 36 inches (76 by 91 centimeters) with a height of 16 to 18 inches (41 to 46 centimeters). Medium to large breeds, 7 to 12 pounds (3.2 to 5.4 kilograms), require 24 by 30 inches (61 by 76 centimeters). Smaller breeds can be accommodated in cages measuring 18 by 24 inches (46 by 61 centimeters). These are minimum requirements for 1 rabbit, and the cage should be larger for 2 or more rabbits housed together.

The cage should be equipped with a feed hopper or bowl for pellets, a hay rack raised off the floor, and a watering system. For multiple rabbits sharing a cage or for a rabbit housed outside, feed hoppers constructed of sheet metal with holes or a screen in the bottom for removal of small broken feed particles are used commonly. For an individual indoor rabbit, a heavy untippable bowl works well for pelleted food, as long as it is cleaned daily to prevent contamination with droppings. Hay racks affixed to the cage wall help keep hay off the floor and reduce wastage.

Rabbits drink more than other animals of similar size and they should be offered fresh water at all times. Rabbits often chew on the watering valve and eventually destroy it unless it is made of stainless steel or has a stainless centerpiece. Water bottles with sipper tubes work well.

A cage with no cage furniture or toys is inadequate; the cage environment should be enriched to give the rabbit something to do. Cardboard boxes and tubes in which to hide and toys made of untreated wood or wicker on which to chew are great ways to enrich a rabbit’s environment. Optimally, rabbits should be given run time outside the cage daily. They should be allowed to exercise in penned off, rabbit-proofed areas and should always be supervised when out of their cages.

If the rabbit is going to be bred, a nest box should be included in the cage. Nest boxes should be constructed so that they can be easily placed in the cage and later removed for cleaning and disinfecting between litters. Disinfecting the nest box after cleaning and again just before placing it in the cage helps reduce incidence of disease. The box should be large enough to prevent crowding but small enough to keep the kits (newborn rabbits) warm. A standard size nest box for medium-sized rabbits is 16 by 10 by 8 inches (41 by 25 by 20 centimeters). Wooden, metal, or plastic nest boxes with nesting material such as straw or hardwood shavings work well in either warm or cold weather. Shredded paper, hay, leaves, and other materials have been used with less success. Rough edges, such as splintered wood, should be avoided because they contribute to mastitis (bacterial infection of the breast tissue) when the doe (female) hops in and out of the nest box.

Pens should have a nonslip floor and may be bedded with straw or shredded paper covered with straw or hay to increase absorbency. Shavings or sawdust are not ideal because they are dusty and may contain oils that irritate rabbits’ respiratory tracts. Pen sides should be at least 4 feet (1.2 meters) high to prevent rabbits from jumping out.

When setting up group housing, compatibility is a major factor. Personalities should be evaluated for docility and aggressiveness. Rabbits that have grown up together are best, although adults may be so aggressive toward each other that serious fights occur. Neutering may improve compatibility. Letting rabbits live in separate pens next to each other before housing them together is a good idea. Cages or pens should provide enough space for multiple rabbits. Floor space recommendations vary from 3.5 to 10 square feet (0.33 to 0.93 square meters) per rabbit to allow territory establishment. Others recommend 3.5 hop lengths per rabbit as a rule of thumb. Regardless, group-housed rabbits should be provided escape and hiding places and should be frequently monitored.

Cleaning frequency depends of the type of cage and number of rabbits. Rabbits typically choose a preferred elimination site, such as a corner of the cage or hutch. Poor sanitation leads to disease and deaths; therefore, cleaning and sanitizing must be regular. As a general guideline, for an individual rabbit living indoors, the cage should be spot cleaned daily to remove fecal material and uneaten food and completely cleaned out (washed with hot soapy water and all of the bedding replaced) at least once a week. Nest boxes must be disinfected between uses. Cages, feeders, and watering equipment should be sanitized more thoroughly periodically with an inexpensive sanitizing solution such as diluted household chlorine bleach (1 ounce of bleach in 1 quart of water or 30 milliliters of bleach in 1 liter of water) or other less corrosive disinfectants. Complete cleaning should be performed before housing new rabbits. Loose hair should be removed regularly to decrease the likelihood of hairballs. One of the most effective methods to remove hair from cages is washing. Pens or wire-floored cages should be brushed or hosed every 2 weeks. An acid wash may be required to descale rabbit urine from solid floor pans. Frequent removal of droppings from the cage is essential. Accumulation of droppings leads to the buildup of toxic levels of ammonia that can irritate rabbits’ respiratory tracts and contribute to the development of infection.

Rabbits are herbivores (plant eaters) with specialized ways of eating and digesting food. They are selective eaters and choose nutrient-rich leaves and new plant shoots over mature plant material that is higher in fiber. They have a high metabolic rate and can meet their nutritional requirements only by selecting the most nutritious plant parts. Most rabbit droppings are small, hard pellets. Rabbits also expel “soft droppings,” called cecotropes, which they eat. These soft droppings provide microbial protein, vitamins, and other nutrients essential for rabbits.

Rabbits digest fiber poorly. They need a generous amount of fiber in the diet (about 15% crude fiber) for proper digestion and to reduce the chance of intestinal disease. Fiber may also absorb toxins produced by bacteria and help expel these toxins through the hard droppings. Low-fiber diets increase the risk of young rabbits developing enterotoxemia, an infection of the intestinal tract with toxin-producing bacteria that can cause severe diarrhea and death. A proper balance between fiber and other dietary components is essential for the health of your pet.

A dietary supply of vitamins A, D, and E is necessary. Bacteria in the gut produce B vitamins and vitamin K in adequate quantities, so dietary supplements of these vitamins are usually unnecessary. Diets containing alfalfa meal generally provide sufficient vitamin A. Lack of vitamin A in the diet may cause abortion or problems with fetuses. Vitamin E deficiency has been associated with infertility, muscular dystrophy (a gradual wasting and weakening of muscles), and fetal and newborn deaths. Disease and stress may increase daily vitamin requirements. High-quality commercially available pelleted diets for rabbits should contain the proper nutrients and should be stored in airtight containers under cool, dry conditions to ensure that vitamins are not destroyed.

The essential components of your pet’s diet (such as protein, fiber, fat, and energy) are the same throughout its life, but the amounts needed vary according to the life stage (growth, pregnancy, nursing, or maintenance), breed, condition, and lifestyle of the rabbit. Ratios should meet the nutrient requirements of the National Research Council ( see Table: Nutrient Requirements of Rabbits). In general, rabbits should be fed an unlimited amount of high-quality grass hay, a smaller amount of Timothy hay-based commercial pellets (approximately ¼ cup per 5 lb of body weight per day, or 59 milliliters per 2.3 kg of body weight per day), and a portion of fresh vegetables (approximately 1 cup per 2 lb of body weight per day). Fruit should be given only occasionally as a treat.

Pelleted rabbit feeds provide good nutrition at reasonable cost. Fresh, clean water should always be available. Adult rabbits should be offered unlimited amounts of timothy or other lower calcium grass hays (such as oat, orchard grass, or meadow grass) and should not be fed alfalfa hay or alfalfa-based pellets (unless they are pregnant or nursing) due to their high calcium content. Prolonged intake of typical commercial diets containing alfalfa meal may lead to kidney damage and calcium carbonate deposits in the urinary tract. Lowering the calcium level to 0.4% to 0.5% of the diet (for non-nursing rabbits) helps reduce these problems. Young, growing rabbits should be fed alfalfa hay and alfalfa-based pellets and gradually transitioned to timothy-based pellets and lower calcium hays as they approach a year of age. Some plants are toxic to rabbits and should be avoided ( see Table: Plants and Foods that are Harmful to Rabbits).

Exercise is necessary for the health of your rabbit. A roomy cage that allows space to move around helps maintain physical and emotional health. Allowing your rabbit some time each day to roam freely outside its cage (under constant supervision) and providing it with a variety of toys and items on which to gnaw provides some exercise and helps keep your pet from becoming bored.

Rabbits are quiet, friendly, playful pets if treated correctly. They are social, but not all rabbits enjoy being handled. Before housing rabbits together, carefully assess them for compatibility. Rabbits are most active at dawn and dusk.

Holding a rabbit

In general, small rabbits do not really like to be handled and tend to struggle if picked up. Medium to larger rabbits may be calmer and easier to handle. Most rabbits can be trained to accept handling when they are approached slowly and calmly and are given a small food treat. Training can take weeks to months with more skittish rabbits. When picking up or holding a rabbit, support its hind end and legs to prevent injury to the back. Proper handling and restraint of your rabbit is important. Rabbits have powerful hind limbs, which can kick out and lead to broken backs if they are not held securely. Rabbits should never be held by the ears. Toenails on the rear limbs may severely scratch unprotected arms when holding a rabbit.

Also see professional content regarding management of rabbits.