Fleas of Cats

Cat fleas begin reproduction about 1 or 2 days after a blood meal from a host. Female fleas lay eggs as they feed and move about on the surface of the skin. A single female flea can produce up to 50 eggs per day and about 2,000 in her lifetime. The eggs are pearly white, oval, and tiny. They readily fall from the fur and drop onto bedding, carpet, or soil, where they hatch in 1 to 6 days. Newly hatched flea larvae are mobile and free-living, feeding on organic debris found in their environment and on adult flea droppings. Flea larvae avoid direct light and actively move deep into carpet fibers or under organic debris (grass, branches, leaves, or soil).

Larvae can easily dry out, and exposure to relative humidity under 50% will kill them. However, they are capable of moving as far as 3 feet (1 meter) to find locations suitable for their survival. Indoors, flea larvae best survive in the protected environment deep within carpet fibers, in cracks between hardwood floor boards, and on unfinished concrete floors in damp basements. Flea development occurs outdoors only where the ground is shaded and moist. The larval stage usually lasts 5 to 11 days but may be prolonged for 2 to 3 weeks, depending on the availability of food and the environmental conditions.

After completing its development, the mature larva produces a silk-like cocoon in which it pupates. The pupa is fully developed in 1 to 2 weeks, but the adult flea may remain in the cocoon for several weeks (and even up to a year) until a suitable host arrives. When it emerges from the cocoon, it can survive 1 to 2 weeks before finding a host on which to feed. It is the newly emerged, unfed fleas that infest pets and bite people. Fleas generally do not leave their host unless forced off by grooming or insecticides. Cat fleas in any stage of the life cycle cannot survive cold temperatures. They will die if the environmental temperature falls below 37°F (3°C) for several days.

Depending on temperature and humidity, the entire life cycle of the flea can be completed in as little as 12 to 14 days or last up to 350 days. However, under most conditions, fleas complete their life cycle in 3 to 8 weeks. Fleas mate after feeding, and females lay eggs within 1 to 2 days of their first blood meal.

The Pests That Bother Your Pets: Fleas

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A flea-infested cat or dog can easily introduce fleas into a home where they deposit eggs that develop into newly emerging fleas. These then infest other pets and bite people.

When feeding, fleas inject saliva into the host on which they are living. Many cats are allergic to flea saliva. Even non-allergic animals will occasionally scratch due to the annoyance of flea bites. Cats with flea allergy dermatitis will have itching that can range from minimal to severe, depending on how sensitive the cat is to the flea saliva. When fur is parted to inspect for skin irritation, small, solid bumps will be visible. This pattern of irritation is known as feline miliary dermatitis because it resembles tiny, round millet seeds. Bumps are typically spread over the back, neck, and face. They can become crusted over after the cat damages its skin by scratching. These bumps are not flea bites, but a system-wide allergic reaction to having been bitten by fleas. The allergic reaction causes the bumpy rash to develop and the cat’s entire body to itch. Itching can be severe, prompting the cat to repeatedly lick, scratch, and chew its skin. Cats with flea allergy dermatitis can also have widespread hair loss or a "racing stripe" of skin inflammation along their backs.

Most cases of flea allergy dermatitis occur in the late summer, corresponding to the peak of flea populations, although it can occur year-round in warmer climates or with indoor pets. Animals younger than 1 year old do not usually have flea allergy dermatitis. Usually, diagnosis is made by visual observation. Slowly parting the hair often reveals flea excrement or rapidly moving fleas. Flea excrement is reddish black, cylindrical, and pellet- or comma-shaped. Placed in water or on a damp paper towel, the excrement dissolves, producing a reddish brown color. Fleas may not be visible on extremely allergic cats due to grooming. Flea combing and examining the pet’s bedding for eggs, larvae, and excrement is useful in these cases. Blood tests that measure antibodies against components of flea saliva may also be helpful. The presence of fleas does not exclude another disease being at least partially responsible for the cat’s itching and skin condition.

Your veterinarian may do skin testing to eliminate other causes for the itching and confirm a diagnosis of flea allergy dermatitis. However, skin testing does not always reliably identify flea allergy dermatitis in cats. Other diseases and conditions that can cause similar signs include infestation with other skin parasites, ringworm infection, sensitivity to medication, food allergy, environmental allergies (atopic dermatitis), and hair follicle infections.

Flea control previously required repeated application of insecticides on the cat and the premises. Insecticides and insect growth regulators have been developed that provide residual control and require fewer applications. The most effective of these products are sold by veterinarians. Many are given once a month and effectively control fleas and other parasites. By using these products, it is possible to eliminate a flea infestation in a household; however, the amount of time necessary to achieve flea control will vary because of the flea’s life cycle and conditions in the environment. Typically, control of an infestation can take 2 to 3 months. It is important to realize that many of these products do not repel or kill fleas immediately. Fleas may live and feed on a pet for 6 to 24 hours before being killed. Therefore, you may still see some fleas on your cat until the environmental infestation is eliminated.

Elimination of fleas in the yard can be an important aspect of flea control. Wild animals and stray cats and dogs can bring fleas into your yard. Even pets that only go outside for brief periods can become infested. In addition, people may unintentionally bring fleas into their households. Outdoor treatments should concentrate on primary areas of flea development, including shaded or moist areas such as dog houses, within garages, under porches, and in animal lounging areas beneath shrubs. Spraying flea control products over the large expanse of a shade-free lawn generally has limited effect on fleas and is poor environmental practice.

In cases of massive flea infestations or severe pet or human flea allergies, treatment of the house may also be necessary. Washing pet blankets, throw rugs, and pet carriers is helpful. Thoroughly vacuum any area where your pets sleep or rest, giving special attention to crevices in sofas and chairs and to areas beneath sofas or beds. Insecticides for the home are available in sprays and foggers; your veterinarian can recommend an appropriate product that is safe to use around cats. Areas where flea eggs and larvae gather, such as bedding, furniture, carpets, the tiny spaces in hardwood flooring, behind baseboards, and within closets, should be treated. In severe infestations, a second treatment may be necessary 7 to 10 days later.

Despite these efforts, it may be impossible to completely or quickly eliminate fleas in some situations. In these cases, cats with flea allergy dermatitis may require treatment with medications, such as corticosteroids. Antibiotics may be necessary to treat secondary skin infections. However, medical treatment is not an appropriate substitute for flea control methods.

You should discuss flea control products with your veterinarian and select one that works well for your cat and the environment in which it lives.