Providing a Home for a Ferret

A wire cage at least 3 feet wide by 3 feet deep by 2 feet high is sufficient to supply a ferret with room for roaming while confined. Check the cage for sharp, jagged, or rough wire and for any openings large enough for the ferret to escape. Pad the bottom of the cage or buy one that has a solid bottom. Bare wire may harm the pads on a ferret’s paws.

Most ferrets prefer to sleep in a relatively small, confined space. Ferrets often enjoy hammocks or fabric huts as sleeping quarters. For bedding, a clean towel or small blanket works well, but if you use fabric, check that it will not unravel and that the ferret does not eat it. Do not use newspaper or wood chips. These items can harbor bacteria or create dust that may irritate the respiratory tract. Cedar releases oil that may be toxic to ferrets.

The cage should contain feeding and watering areas. Ferrets often tip over water and food bowls, so use sturdy containers. Water bottles and some types of food bowls may be attached to the side of the cage.

Ferrets can be trained to use a litter box. They prefer to urinate and defecate in the same spot, away from sleeping and eating areas. Also, ferrets will drag their hindquarters across the floor after urinating or defecating to wipe themselves. This is not a sign of illness but is normal ferret behavior.

A cat litter box cut down to size and cat litter may be used. However, avoid using the clumping types of cat litter as these may cause respiratory problems in ferrets. Place the litter box in the cage, but do not place it too close to the ferret’s sleeping or eating areas or the ferret will not use it.

Place the cage away from drafts and dampness, and do not place it directly in front of windows. Ferrets are sensitive to heat and humidity because they do not have sweat glands. A temperature range of 65°F to 75°F (18°C to 23°C) is usually comfortable. Although they handle cold better than heat, food consumption may double when they are exposed to low temperatures.

Food and fresh water should be available at all times. Ferrets easily overheat and become dehydrated. They also have a high metabolism and short digestive tract, which require them to eat frequently.

Ferrets require diets low in carbohydrate, moderate in fat, and high in protein and should be fed commercial ferret food. Previously, ferrets were fed cat or kitten food, but many commercially available diets are now available specifically for ferrets that meet their nutritional needs better than cat or kitten foods do. Because ferrets are carnivores, their diet should be meat based. A diet high in plant proteins and ash (found in low-quality foods) can cause bladder stones. Check the ingredient label before purchasing commercial food.

A diet of dry food (that is, kibble) is recommended. Prolonged feeding of soft, wet food leads to disease of the gums and teeth. Do not feed milk or other dairy products or foods rich in carbohydrates. All of these items are difficult for ferrets to digest. Ferrets are very prone to developing insulinomas – tumors in the pancreas that produce high levels of insulin, causing rapid declines in blood sugar. Ferrets should not be fed sugary foods such as honey, raisins, fruits, or other high-carbohydrate treats, because these items encourage the pancreas to release insulin and may worsen the signs of insulinomas.

Keep treats to a minimum, no more than 5% of a ferret’s daily caloric intake. Too many treats may lead to malnutrition. Good choices include meat, eggs, and freeze-dried muscle or organ meat, sold as cat or dog treats.

Ferrets do not react well to frequent diet changes. If changes must be made, introduce them gradually to avoid stressing the animal. For example, mix a new food in with the usual food for several days, slowly increasing the amount of the new food given. Vitamins and vitamin supplements are not necessary, except under special conditions or for older ferrets. Your veterinarian can advise you if these are needed.

Ferrets are energetic, social animals that require a great deal of play and interaction. At a minimum, ferrets need 2 to 4 hours every day outside their cage to remain healthy. Leave the door of the cage open so that the ferret has access to food, water, and the litter box, but ensure that whenever the ferret is out of the cage, it is supervised or confined to a ferret-proofed area where it cannot get into trouble. Exercise also ensures your ferret will not mind being caged when necessary.

Ferrets are often likened to kittens. They are playful, curious, highly active, and sociable, even as adults. They are quick learners and can be trained to do tricks. They also are fearless and have short attention spans. Ferrets do not have a strong sense of territory or a homing instinct and will wander off if left outdoors. A young ferret may be frightened by sudden movement or a loud noise. It will hunch its back, puff out its fur, and screech. Older ferrets will only display this behavior if truly under attack by another animal. Talk quietly to the animal, but do not attempt to pick it up unless necessary for its safety. It will eventually calm down.

When first let out of a cage, ferrets may run, jump, twist in the air, and violently collide with household objects. This is normal, healthy ferret behavior and may be a sign of high spirits or simply good health.

Ferrets will sleep up to 18 hours a day. Young ferrets sleep especially deeply and may be difficult to wake, even when pinched or thumped on the chest. Many new owners worry the animal is dead or in a coma. A ferret that has a moist pink mouth, feels warm, and is breathing slowly but regularly is sleeping soundly. It is also normal for ferrets to shake and shiver when they wake up, and this should not be cause for alarm.

Also see professional content regarding management of ferrets.